DAY 96: ALICE SPRINGS

18 SEPTEMBER 2021

We are already about 1400 kilometres south from Coomalie Farm. After a cuppa and a muffin with James, Denise, Richard, the dogs and Musky the Duck,

… we waved our last farewells and drove out the gates towards the Stuart Highway. Denise sent me a short clip she made of our departure.

With the air conditioning cranked up, we continued down the highway, over Coomalie Creek, past Pel Mel, over Snake Creek, through Adelaide River and almost 500 meters beyond when Linus (the Patrol) stumbled into limp mode and refused to pick up speed.

The engine did not sound the best either. There was no option but to turn around and limp back to Andrew at Adelaide River, whom we have got to know so well during our stay at Coomalie. After we contacted our NRMA Premium Roadside assistance, Andrew was called in for a consultation yet again. He jiggled the wires that activate the fuel injectors and diagnosed an issue with one that is connected to the Number 1 cylinder (my best effort at translating his analysis).

There was no choice but to call Daniel, the AutoElectrician for HELP and set up camp at the Adelaide River Tourist Resort until he can come down. Of course I did not really suspect our Coomalie mates, who had threatened to nobble Linus to make us stay longer.

https://www.adelaideriverresort.com.au

As soon as our Coomalie family heard of our plight they immediately arranged to join us for dinner at the Digger’s Bistro for a take two of our Farewell Dinner.

Daniel arrived early the next morning and in no time at all repaired the offending connection and Linus roared back into life again.

After breakfast we were soon back on the road again, heading south towards Katherine where I wanted to spend a little time at Tony’s memorial. Several camouflaged army vehicles passed us heading north. We have been impressed by the large numbers of such convoys that have passed us travelling in both directions. There must be some very large military exercises taking place up here.

Feathers have always connected me to my darling Tony, ever since we first visited this site and I looked up and saw a pair of Whistling Kites gliding high overhead. Several times when I have been in our back yard at home, feeling the pain of his loss, a feather has come gliding down from a bird flying overhead, and landed near me. When I planned to have a tattoo in his memory, a feather was the first image that came to mind.

Before leaving Katherine, we took Rosie to the Vet there for a second injection to manage the allergies that make her want to lick the fur off her feet.

BITTER SPRINGS MATARANKA: 15 September

https://northernterritory.com/katherine-and-surrounds/accommodation/bitter-springs-cabins-and-camping

It was about 5pm when we pulled in to the Bitter Springs Cabins and Camping Ground, which borders the Elsey National Park. As soon as camp was set up, we couldn’t wait any longer to pop around to the beautiful Bitter Springs for a dip.

The water was so warm and clear and soothing. We enjoyed our time floating about 250 meters down with the flow of the water to a second set of steps. From there we could take a path back up to top steps and do it all again. The sun had set and the water was very dark and black, by the time we finally reluctantly returned to camp.

The next morning we returned to the Springs for a pre-breakfast dip. The light on the water was different in the bright morning sun. The white sand, green water grasses rocks and black trunks of fallen trees were so clearly visible. Norm caught a brief glimpse of one of the turtles who call this beautiful place home.

BITTER SPRINGS TO BANKA BANKA WEST STATION: 16 SEPTEMBER

In order to catch up some of the time lost by our unscheduled stop at Adelaide River, we drove over 400 kms today. It was 5pm before we finally pulled in to Banka Banka Station and the eye catching rainbow windmill. At the Hi-way Inn we were served the biggest hamburger we have seen in ages for lunch.

BANKA BANKA

https://www.discovercentralaustralia.com/accommodation/banka-banka-west-station-and-tourist-park/

The lovely old mud brick Banka Banka Homestead has been converted into a small bar now. In the middle of the grassy courtyard between the Homestead and the work sheds there is a campfire in an old water trough. It was lovely to spend time together with our fellow campers with a drink, sitting beside the campfire, sharing tales of our travels. After that enormous hamburger at lunch time we were very happy to dine on a light salad for dinner.

BANKA BANKA TO TI TREE: 17 SEPTEMBER

A beautiful Banka Banka sunrise greeted us this morning.

At Tennant Creek we took a short drive around town and up the Battery Hill. It is a town of contrasts with signs of its indigenous, gold mining, pastoral, and telegraph station history as well as several more modern additions.

Of course we had to take a short detour to the amazing Devil’s Marbles.

With fond memories of our stay at Wycliff Well and its querky aliens theme back in 2005 we decided to pop in there for lunch.

The interesting old Barrow Creek Telegraph Station, which sits beneath the Forster Ranges, was our next stop along the very straight road.

https://nt.gov.au/__data/assets/pdf_file/0013/200056/barrow-creek-telegraph-station-information-sheet-and-map.pdf

It was very hot by the time we had arrived and set up camp at the Ti Tree Roadhouse, and we were both very happy to take a dip in the pool. The water was SO cold it took our breath away. I think we have spent too long up in the tropical heat of the north.

Another beautiful sunrise shone through the windows in the morning. Rosie and I chatted to the local Geese and young joey on our morning walk around the park.

It was much cooler as we set out on the last leg of our drive to the Alice. Along the way there were several puddles, evidence of rain that we had missed.

The Highway now bypasses Aileron, however we took the short detour in to check it out. There are two most amazing statues there…

https://www.stonefamilyinaustralia.com.au/family_history/archive_items/5685

Further down the highway we visited a well that had been hand dug back in 1889 to supply water to travellers and stock passing along the Overland Telegraph Line. It was rather more substantial than the wells we saw along the Canning Stock Route.

On the opposite side of the highway are the ruins of the Glen Maggie homestead, which was built by the Nicker family in 1914. By 1921 the homestead was also a telegraph office and store. Only 14 years later, in 1935 the building was abandoned when the Telegraph Station moved north to Aileron Station.

Every now and then we amuse ourselves with some of the old Trivial Pursuit questions from the game that Norm came across at the St Francis’ Op Shop in Batchelor. Some of the questions are so dated, that we haven’t heard of many of the movie stars or sporting heroes mentioned!

A huge 4 trailer road train escorted us on the last leg of our journey to Alice Springs.

The Alice Springs Tourist Park will be our home for the next week or two. Linus is booked in for a service and Norm needs to do a few maintenance and repair jobs on the Van. The weather here is is much cooler, so we aren’t in a hurry to travel much further south for awhile.

http://alicespringstouristpark.com.au/

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