DAY 116: COOBER PEDY VIA MARLA FROM KULGERA

FRIDAY 8 OCTOBER 2021

Home is now at the Big 4 Stuart Range Outback Resort at Coober Pedy. On Wednesday morning Rosie and I said our farewells to Kulgera and the Northern Territory, before joining Norm and continuing on our southerly ambles to the border with South Australia..

It was only 180 kms of mostly straight, flat, black or red road to the first Hotel/Service Station in South Australia at Marla. The only ‘road kill’ we passed was in the form of dead cars, some burnt out, some upright, others lying on their roofs minus wheels and other vital parts. Norm recalled an episode of the ‘Outback Truckers’ show where the very resourceful Truckers took their truck and car crushing machine out on the road, collecting the discarded wrecks, crushing them into small square blocks and cashing them in at the scrap metal yard. Apparently they made a reasonable living. I could not help wondering how many wrecks it would take for a week’s wages.

The camp ground was very posh for the ‘Out Back’ with patches of lovely green grass (just for looking at of course) which kept the dust down to a small puff.

Here in SA they insist on wearing masks everywhere in doors, although it is not a requirement of their state government. ‘No mask, no service’ is the firm notice greeting one at just about all establishments (including public loos). When we dined out at the Marla Pub, Norm was able to test run his new mask which we bought in Darwin more as a souvenir than thinking it would actually be worn.

MARLA TO COOBER PEDY

Another easy drive today, 280 kms of mostly straight, flat road with the occasional bend or hill to add variety. When we paused at the Cadney Homestead for a coffee and to change drivers, one of the very cute reptilian locals welcomed us.

I drove the last leg into Coober Pedy, while Norm took over as trip photographer. We were amazed by the huge amount of development that has taken place here since our last visit. The cone-shaped mullock heaps appeared much further out of town, and it seemed that more serious big machinery is being used to dig and sift and work the claims.

We set up home under the shade mesh and then took a drive around town to explore the ‘new’ Coober Pedy. I was amused to discover that the name means “White Man in a Hole’.

Driving into town there are now curbs and gutters with what look like regular suburban blocks, fenced and almost normal houses above ground. There are still some of the original mole-like underground establishments, marked by forests of metal chimneys and vents and TV aerials.

There were great views over town from the hill where the ‘Big Winch’ stands.

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